Types of Handloom Sarees in India

Woven in Maheshwar on the Narmada, under a tradition that grew under the patronage of Ahilyabai Holkar in the 18th century. A silk warp with cotton weft gives a light fabric with a soft sheen. Its signature is a reversible border  patterned identically on both sides  and five distinctive stripes on the pallu. Registered as a Geographical Indication in 2010. Best for: summer weddings, festive daywear.

Not a print  a resist-dyeing technique applied to the yarn before weaving. The weaver must align pre-dyed threads so the pattern emerges on the loom, which is why Ikkat motifs have that characteristic soft, feathered edge. Odisha's version is finer and more figurative; Pochampally's is bolder and more geometric. Best for: statement daywear.

Bengal's fine cottons  including gauzy mulmul  are the lightest daily-wear sarees in the country. Khesh is the standout: woven with strips torn from old sarees used as weft, producing a textured, slubby cloth with an upcycling story built into the weave itself. Best for: peak-heat months, everyday wear.

Here the base is handloom cloth and the craft is in the printing. Ajrakh, from Kutch, uses roughly sixteen stages of natural-dye resist printing over about three weeks. Dabu, from Rajasthan, uses a mud resist to create softer, blurrier patterning. Both use plant and mineral dyes. Best for: distinctive daywear that ages well.

Hand wash the first two or three times in cold water with mild detergent  natural dyes release colour early, so wash separately. Never wring; press water out in a towel. Dry in shade, since direct sun fades plant dyes. Iron on the reverse while slightly damp. Store folded in cotton or muslin rather than plastic, and refold along fresh lines every few months so permanent creases don't weaken the fibre. A loose thread should be tucked in, never cut.